There’s an interesting article in the Wall Street Journal's Food & Drink section about the resurgence of quality Merlot. That the varietal has taken a bit of beating is not news. Over the past years, it built a reputation as a plodding, “meatloaf kind of wine, easy and unfussy, round and fairly soft”. In the 1990s, its popularity surged as Americans lapped up the approachable wine in an ironic attempt to be more French (the word got out about the “French Paradox” in a 1992 episode of 60 Minutes and red wine sales increased by 44% within four weeks).
Then, a familiar story takes shape. Rationality and quality control get neglected during rabid consumption of a product built up on hype. A lot of wine drinkers gradually realized how cloying and simple most Merlot is when compared with other wines, and its bubble finally popped with Sideways providing the final jab. As WSJ notes, the 2008 US Merlot crop is down to its lowest levels in more than eight years.
Yet, Merlot is still the third most popular wine in America after Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. And on top of that, the WSJ wine writers conducted a blind tasting of several cheap Merlots and found some gems, even in the $10 range. The budding wine snob in me is inclined to be cynical. Who would want to dole out the liver space and money for a bottle of Merlot, when there are more enticing wines out there? But, I’m sentimental too. Merlot was the very first wine I tried. It was the wine that started me on liking wine probably because of its inoffensive sweetness and roundness. Thus, I'm not inclined to disparage it too much. It's like having a first crush before a series of more serious romances, one which you look back on with a shrug and a sense of sheepishness as you get less naïve about things. The WSJ article makes me want to try it again, though. I think the best thing to do is to buy one of their suggested Merlots and bring it to a potluck dinner with friends. At least we can all lambaste the wine if turns out to be yawn-inducing, and there’ll be an eager group ready to share a back-up bottle of something a little punchier.
Click here for the WSJ article, “Merlot Makes a Comeback”
Then, a familiar story takes shape. Rationality and quality control get neglected during rabid consumption of a product built up on hype. A lot of wine drinkers gradually realized how cloying and simple most Merlot is when compared with other wines, and its bubble finally popped with Sideways providing the final jab. As WSJ notes, the 2008 US Merlot crop is down to its lowest levels in more than eight years.
Yet, Merlot is still the third most popular wine in America after Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. And on top of that, the WSJ wine writers conducted a blind tasting of several cheap Merlots and found some gems, even in the $10 range. The budding wine snob in me is inclined to be cynical. Who would want to dole out the liver space and money for a bottle of Merlot, when there are more enticing wines out there? But, I’m sentimental too. Merlot was the very first wine I tried. It was the wine that started me on liking wine probably because of its inoffensive sweetness and roundness. Thus, I'm not inclined to disparage it too much. It's like having a first crush before a series of more serious romances, one which you look back on with a shrug and a sense of sheepishness as you get less naïve about things. The WSJ article makes me want to try it again, though. I think the best thing to do is to buy one of their suggested Merlots and bring it to a potluck dinner with friends. At least we can all lambaste the wine if turns out to be yawn-inducing, and there’ll be an eager group ready to share a back-up bottle of something a little punchier.
Click here for the WSJ article, “Merlot Makes a Comeback”
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